When you’re set to go, begin rolling on pairs of coats slowly from one corner and outwards until everything appears even. With so many options available at your local hardware store, why not choose a paint you know will be up to the task? Not only do they dry quickly to prevent smudging while in use, but their durability makes them the go-to pick for lasting protection against wear and tear. Quality paints can make or break any painting project, and latex-based products reign supreme. Once all layers of the joint compound have been allowed time to dry out fully and all ridges have been sanded down evenly across their entirety, you can then move on to painting (if desired).īefore beginning, always make sure that any unpainted sections are given two coats of primer/sealer first to protect them from moisture damage later on while also providing an ideal base surface for painting over afterward. This should help create an even texture across your newly-patched wall section before painting (if desired). Make sure not to leave any lumps or bumps behind, as these may show through after painting.Īllow this layer of compound time to dry completely before moving on to sanding down any visible ridges. Use a putty knife or taping tool to spread an even coat of joint compound over both sides until everything looks nice and uniform. If you’d rather not spend the money, consider repainting the affected walls in a flat paint, as sheens make it easier to spot imperfections.Once you have fitted your new sheetrock piece into position, you can then start applying joint compound over both sides of your new patch to secure it into place and give yourself a nice smooth finish on either side (and any surrounding areas). This isn’t a job for the average person to do over the weekend it’s specialized work that requires a trained hand. ![]() That coat fills in the recessed areas, creating a flat-looking surface. No matter the cause, the solution to bulging drywall seams is almost always the same.Ĭall in a contractor to apply a skim coat of compound over the entire wall. Again, the explanation is that either a pro did the work and chose to cut corners, or a DIYer did so unwittingly. As a result, the joint compound and drywall tape are applied over the plane of the drywall surface, resulting in a buildup that looks very much like a bulge. Because the edges of these sheets aren’t tapered, there’s no depression when they’re paired. Trouble arises only when installers opt to use cut drywall. That depression is meant to accommodate joint compound and drywall tape. Here’s yet another possible cause: When drywall sheets with uncut edges are butted together, a depression forms along the line where they join. Or an inexperienced do-it-yourselfer may have done the work, in the process making some common mistakes without knowing the error of his ways. That being the case, it’s not uncommon for a contractor to use fewer layers than would be ideal, leaving the drywall seam insufficiently feathered to the adjacent surfaces. For tradesmen, it’s a time-consuming process, one that often requires repeat visits to the job site. Additionally, each layer needs to dry-and, in some cases, should be sanded-before the next layer goes on. The most likely culprit is the manner in which your drywall was installed.įor the seam between drywall panels to disappear after painting, that joint between drywall panels must be covered with compound in a specific way-in a series of layers, with each layer wider than the last. ![]() If, however, you notice any other signs of settling-cracks in the foundation, torn drywall joints, or gaps either along the baseboards or at the point where walls meet ceilings-hire a foundation expert to do an inspection. In your case, unless your geographical area has had unusually dry or wet conditions in recent years, structural problems are probably not at play, given that your home is relatively young at 40 years of age. ![]() Sometimes, drywall seams become visible when a house has undergone considerable settling. A: With the drywall firmly attached, as you say it is, I can think of only three situations in which the seams would bulge, sag, or buckle.
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